Wichita Falls hosted us last night. Now, Wichita Falls does not have a Ritz Carlton. There’s no Four Seasons (tragically). You can’t even find an Omni in town. So look at these images:

 

The lobby.

The lobby.

 

 

Where did we stay?

 

A sitting area.

A sitting area.

 

 

Who built this fabulous lobby?

Check the fluffy bedding:

 

My room in Wichita Falls.

My room in Wichita Falls.

 

This is a Holiday Inn Express. Wow. And believe it or not, the hotel was $59–the best value of the Great American Road Trip thus far.

When we got into the car this morning, I noticed that the right rear tire was low on air. We stopped at a service station and pumped it up from 20 pounds to 28 pounds, then hit the road.

 

A massive hubcap collection.

A massive hubcap collection.

 

Cruising through Texas, I came upon what has to be the largest collection of hubcaps I’ve ever seen. They stretched for nearly an acre. I stopped to admire and the elderly owner came out on his Little Rascal. Unfortunately, he bashed his scooter up against the Cadillac, which sorta took the sheen off his hubcap collection. Luckily, he hit my Motorpool sticker, so no harm done.

From Witchita we passed through Dallas, visiting with friends, and then on to Longview, Texas. Horribly behind schedule, we pulled off in Longview to eat dinner at a Southern institution: the Waffle House. 

 

Behind the scenes.

Behind the scenes.

 

 

Waffle Houses are far better when you’ve been drinking a prodigious amount of liquor. Really. It’s easier that way to overlook the greasy food, sleazy clientele, and grit of the place. Unfortunately, Kim and I weren’t drunk.

Just tired and hungry. 

Kim, a Waffle House veteran, ordered her hash browns smothered, covered, diced, and peppered (that’s with onions, peppers, cheese, and tomatoes in Waffle House lingo).  I ordered two poached eggs, bacon, biscuits, and grits. We both asked for hot coffee. Our coffee arrived fairly quickly and we sipped it in a silent stupor. 

After about 10 minutes, I began to look around the Waffle House. At 11 p.m., there were four other people in the place in addition to me and Kim. The waitress, our short-order cook, and two other patrons. I’d noticed the other customers when we’d come inside. They were driving a 1983 Chevrolet Caprice Classic in an electric green color with 22-inch wheels. It sported an interesting appendage below the license plate–a pair of stainless-steel testicles. The driver of the Chevy Ca Hones, weighing in at 90 pounds, wore a matching, green, wife-beater t-shirt. His heavyweight girlfriend, squashed into some alarmingly transparent white cotton britches, was having words with our short order cook.

The cook was working at the grill and furiously cooking eggs, bacon, sausage, and other assorted breakfast goods. Piles of food were boxed and ready to go out the door.

“Where are my scrambled eggs?” white hot pants asked the cook.

“Right here, m’am,” the cook answered. He pointed to an omelet.

“No, that’s an omelet,” hot pants said, “I want scrambled eggs.”

“What about my sausage?” hot pants asked.

“Coming right up, m’am,” the cook said casually.

At this point, Kim asked our waitress about our dinner. The waitress looked at us for a beat and said, “It will be right out.”

I could tell she was lying through her teeth. Another 20 minutes rolled by. Hot pants was still at the counter. Wife-beater came in to join her and the two of them were giving the short order cook the Longview Inquisition.

“Toast! I asked for TOAST, not raisin bread!” wife-beater said to the cook. 

“I wanted sausage, not bacon,” hot pants announced to the Waffle House at large.

This caught Kim’s attention. She turned around, noticed the giant pile of to go boxes, smiled and asked hot pants, “Are y’all ordering for Patton’s Fifth Army?”

Hot pants was not amused. “No, we’ve just ordered for the two of us. They just can’t get it right.” She went back to glaring at the cook. Kim was about to ask a follow-up question before my loafer caught her shin under the table. Just then, our waitress reappeared.

“Rough night?” Kim asked her.

“Oh yes. I don’t know what’s going on. He’s been like this since I got here,” she said, motioning to the cook. He was flipping tomatoes theatrically and smiling broadly at Kim.

Pulling into Longview, Kim had recounted her years of eating every Saturday at a Waffle House in Birmingham. She and her friend Cassie had befriended all the wait staff, many of whom had worked for the same Waffle House for more than 20 years. 

“How long have you worked here?” Kim asked the girl. 

“Two weeks,” she replied, “We have all-new management.”

Oh Lord, I thought. We’re goners. Just then, the cook launched a tomato through the air, sending it straight onto the floor. He looked at me and shrugged.

We decided not to plague the poor waitress with any more trouble and waited another 20 minutes in silence for dinner. Finally, our meals arrived. Kim’s hash browns and grilled cheese sandwich were fairly okay. My poached eggs were scrambled.

“Are these poached?” the waitress asked. I replied that poached eggs were boiled. She offered to have the chef take another stab at ‘em. I said I’d be happy with two fried eggs, sunny-side up.

“Great!” she replied perkily.

I began poking my grits and contemplating whether they could be used to patch my tires.

 

My fried eggs.

My fried eggs.

 

Then my fried eggs arrived, nearly raw. The short-order cook beamed at me from the grill. I beamed back and gave him a thumbs up.   Kim, the waitress, and I burst into hysterics. Cook came over and told us he’d learned a lot in his year as a Waffle House employee. He motioned to a plate of food on an adjoining table and said, “That’s my breakfast!” It was covered in about a pint of Heinz 57 sauce. 

“I mean, I knew how to cook before I got here.” he intoned seriously, “But this breakfast stuff can be tricky.”

It sure can. Kim paid for dinner and left the waitress a $10 tip (she’d had a tough night) and we motored on through the darkness.

A few hours later, at 2 am, we arrived in Shreveport. We were trying to make New Orleans by daybreak. But what was to be an 8-hour drive turned into an all-night fiasco. We finally decided to drive through the night, rather than to try to find a hotel at this hour. Kim is a cool cousin–up for anything.

 

The Brougham in the swampland of Louisiana at 4 am.

The Brougham in the swampland of Louisiana at 4 am.

 

 

At four o’clock, the moon over the swamp took on such a ghostly hue that I had to stop to snap this picture of the Brougham.

Finally, at 4:30, I was too tired to continue. I pulled into an Exxon station to put more air in the right rear tire, which was still leaking air slowly. Unfortunately, a large 18-wheeler blocked the air pump. So we parked and nodded off for an hour’s sleep.

Kim snapped this unfortunate picture of me as I settled into the backseat for an hour of sleep.

Kim snapped this unfortunate picture of me as I settled into the backseat for an hour of sleep.

 

 

Our journey began the next morning at seven a.m. and took us through the verdant hills of Southern Colorado and long stretches of New Mexico. 

 

Long, straight, and flat: roads made for big Cadillacs.

Long, straight, and flat: roads made for big Cadillacs.

 

 

By mid afternoon we’d reached Amarillo. Tooling down Route 66 we came upon what must be the saddest site of all of motordom: The Cadillac Ranch. 

 

Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas.

Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas.

 

 

Ten vintage Cadillacs lay buried in a field just eight miles outside of Amarillo. Their exposed fins lure many thousands of visitors, many of whom seem compelled to decorate the Cadillacs. Graffiti covers each car in more than an inch of paint, which probably has saved these beasts from rusting into one great oxidized heap.

 

When dinosaurs roamed the earth.

When dinosaurs roamed the earth.

 

A good half-inch of paint covers each car.

A good half-inch of paint covers each car.

 

 

 

From the Cadillac Ranch, we went to The Big Texan, home of the 72 ounce free steak (which is actually a pot roast in disguise.)

 

The Big Texan Steak Ranch sign in Amarillo, Texas.

The Big Texan Steak Ranch sign in Amarillo, Texas.

 

Again, more dead critters festooned the walls and this time our wait staff was a bit more theatrically garbed in boots, dungarees, checked shirts, garter belts, and cowboy hats. We were treated to big howdies all around. 

 

The 72-ounce steak challenge at the Big Texan.

The 72-ounce steak challenge at the Big Texan.

 

 

Our server, Ralph, explained the 72-ounce-steak challenge. 

 

The "stage" where challengers must eat the 72-ounce steak.

The "stage" where challengers must eat the 72-ounce steak.

 

To eat for free one must finish the 72-ounce steak, a shrimp cocktail, a baked potato and a house salad within one hour. Contestants cannot go to the restroom, stretch, push back from the table or share their meal with any one else.  If you are unable to finish, you owe the Big Texan $75 for your four-pound lunch.

 

My regular 12-ounce steak at the Big Texan.

My regular 12-ounce steak at the Big Texan.

 

 

You’d think a big fat fellow with four chins and three stomachs would win this thing. Nope. The winners are skinny little guys. “They sneak up on you,” Ralph said.

 

The donor-cow for the 72-ounce steak.

The donor-cow for the 72-ounce steak.

 

“I had one of them little guys order not one, but two pieces of cake after he won the contest. Our cakes aren’t small! Our manager said if he could eat them, he could have them for free. He did.” said Ralph.

 

Another Cadillac in West Texas.

Another Cadillac in West Texas.

 

 

Ralph asked the guy if he practiced for the event. “No, not really.” said the skinny guy,  “I just had three hamburgers for lunch.” 

 

One should pay attention to the signs in Texas.

One should pay attention to the signs in Texas.

 

After waddling back out to the Cadillac, we motored on through the afternoon, clicking hundreds of miles through Northern Texas. Some complain that this part of Texas is boring. Please.

 

Cruising through West Texas on FM roads. No, that's not the radio dial.

Cruising through West Texas on FM roads. No, that's not the radio dial.

 

 

I think that’s bunk. How can you be bored in West Texas? I’m too busy looking at crops, critters, and cows. 

 

Still running after all these years.

Still running after all these years.

 

Now purist car collectors should avert their eyes right now. I’ve mentioned the people who don’t drive their cars. Obviously I don’t fall into that camp. I am also not one of those people who vacuum the bottom of my feet before I get in one of my collector cars. Sure, I keep them pristine (when I’m not on the road), but I also like to drive a Cadillac agli (that’s “A.G.L.I.” or  as the good Lord intended): with a cigar.

 

Jailbreak from the Big Texan.

Jailbreak from the Big Texan.

 

 

 A cigar in a Cadillac? As natural as bourbon and branch, shrimp and grits, sugar and ice tea. Cruising through West Texas calls for a cigar: a big, fat Cuban cigar, preferably a Monte Cristo, which, surprise, I just happened to have in the commodious glove box. 

 

Cigars and Cadillacs--life at its best.

Cigars and Cadillacs--life at its best.

 

 

Kim and I puffed along in the memory of the Cadillac’s original owner, “Heavy” Jones (a big cigar fan, judging by the nicotine tinge of the headliner). 

 

Puffing through West Texas.

Puffing through West Texas.

 

 

I even used the cigar lighter to get the Monte Cristo going, which worked beautifully. Naturally, Kim had her own cigar lighter as well. The Caddy has four of them–because, after all, it would be simply rude to pass a hot lighter in 1958.  

If you followed my Twitter log yesterday, you know that the day started early. I left the tramps at the Hampton Inn and headed to the nearest gas station to top off the tank and check the coolant level.

Rushing to get out of Amarillo early, I stupidly locked the keys in the car. As I shut the door I thought, you idiot. Then I had a little moment of hope, maybe I didn’t lock the other doors. (I did.)

So I waited on a locksmith. The nice tech arrived within five minutes yet was totally stumped by my car. His pick didn’t work. His Jimmy didn’t work. His little air bladder thingie didn’t work. Finally, I asked if he had a coat hanger. Within three minutes I’d popped my own lock, no harm done, and was on my way. Embarrassing.

The drive from Amarillo to Alburquerqie, New Mexico is long and deceptively flat. You’re actually headed uphill all the way, though I had no idea how high I was actually going. The terrain, though barren, has a beauty to it of few other places I’ve been.

 

Another town, another station. This would become a familiar site.

Another town, another station. This would become a familiar site.

 

Given the lateness of the hour and my wish to reach Las Vegas, I drove straight through Albuquerque, Gallup, Winslow, and Flagstaff. The miles clicked by 750 miles to go, 650 miles to go, 550 miles to go. The land began to undulate. Cliffs, buttes, and mesas arose on the horizon. 

 

The landscape as I drove out of Texas.

The landscape as I drove out of Texas.

 

Meanwhile, the Cadillac began to feel more sluggish than usual. I had to keep my foot on her to maintain the speed limit, 75 mph. At highway speeds she’d occasionally skip, like a cylinder was misfiring.  I began to think that she’d croak at any moment. When I’d pull off for gas, which I was now doing quite often, getting her back up to speed was a nightmare. The car would cough, sputter, wheeze, and grumble her way to 67 mph–and then that’s all she would muster. Gas mileage dropped like the stock market. What was 10 mpg in Amarillo dropped to 9 mpg in Tucurncari, 7 mpg, in Casa Blanca, and finally 6 mpg in Prewitt, New Mexico.

 

I began thinking I needed an older vehicle.

I began thinking I needed an older vehicle.

 

Something was amiss. In Gallup, New Mexico, I wheezed my way into a Pep Boys auto store. Now, I’m no mechanic–but I have learned this car. My suspicion was that my spark plugs were fouled out; totally blackened by the Brougham running rich. I called my friend Ken Long and his brother Clark. Both agreed fouled spark plugs could be the problem.

 

A correct diagnosis. Foul play, for sure.

A correct diagnosis. Foul play, for sure.

 

Five minutes after pulling into the store’s parking lot, I’d pulled one of the plugs. It was black as the devil. I bought some replacements for $18 and busted my knuckles over the next 90 minutes installing them. The Brougham’s low-profile design meant that the car was a forerunner to a modern automobile, where components are difficult to reach and placement is more for style than the convenience of the mechanic.

 

Getting these suckers out made me long for a car with no options.

Getting these suckers out made me long for a car with no options.

 

While in the lot, about a half-dozen drunks approached the car. Each, curiously, said the same thing as they staggered towards the gaping hood of the Cadillac, “DAMNNNNNN! Nice, ride, man! Damn!” Pep Boys security eventually came out and shooed away a few of the more persistent bums. Then three of four Pep Boys employees came to see the Cadillac. On particularly nice salesperson lent me a swivel-headed ratchet. A customer named “Jasper” held the hood in place for upwards of 20 minutes while he waited for his daughter’s spark plugs to be changed.

At last came the moment of truth. Would the car start? It did. And it ran better, for sure. The stumble was gone and power was back. Hot damn and hallelujah. What was causing fouled spark plugs? I guessed the altitude was a big part of my problem. Flagstaff, Arizona would mark the high point of this leg of the journey, at 7,500 feet, and thereafter it was downhill. My plan: make it to Vegas. The Cadillac & LaSalle Club’s Grand National Convention started this weekend, so I was sure the parking lot would be full of wise motoring gurus, eager to share a tip or two about making my car run better.

Thundering out of Gallup, I continued my drive westward. At the next filling station, I eagerly calculated my mileage: 6 mpg. Good lord–I need to invade an OPEC nation. I’m leaving a carbon footprint the size of Al Gore’s ego. Well, I considered, perhaps I’d averaged 5 mpg pre-spark plugs change, and was now doing 7 mpg.

The lonely highway.

The lonely highway.

 

 

Unfortunately, wishful thinking didn’t cure the car. The next filling station stop revealed I was now averaging a horrific, stomach-churning, hair-curling, wallet-busting 5.54 mpg. And back out on the road, I realized my brake lights were now sticking, a condition which forced me to drive for 300 miles with my left foot under the pedal, lifting it to avoid burning out m taillights. Oh, and the car began to miss again and was having trouble holding 62 miles per hour.

At the highest altitude of my trip (thus far), I reached a nadir, a bog of despair, a low point that could only be surpassed by the car actually conking out in the middle of the desert. I am sure that every explorer, adventurer, and risk taker knows what I’m talking about. No doubt Columbus, Lewis & Clark, et. al. cursed their boats, their rotten luck, the uncooperative weather, and intermittent cell-phone coverage. Like them, I was alone, for there was no one around for miles. Just me and my old machine, both creeping towards Las Vegas. 

Slowly, finally, at last, the Brougham and I crested Flagstaff and began the decent to Vegas. My craptacular gas mileage caused me to stop every 50 miles to fill up. The non-functioning gas gauge and odometer didn’t help matters.

Yet every foot I descended helped the old girl. By the time I reached Hoover Dam, the car was running more or less okay. She, nor I, were happy to be out at three o’clock in the morning. I did get a spectacular nighttime shot of the dam and marveled at the new bridge going in beside the Depression-era project.

 

Hoover Dam at 3 a.m.--just before I crossed into Nevada.

Hoover Dam at 3 a.m.--just before I crossed into Nevada.

 

Finally, at four o’clock, the valley unfolded below me like a giant radioactive crater. Las Vegas suddenly appeared, glowing a fiery orange and twinkling in the heat. I parked the car in a reserved spot at the Cadillac & LaSalle Club convention and checked into the hotel, rattled and exhausted.

It’s about 8:30. I went to bed at 2:15 and awoke to the alarm at 7. Today will be a long day–Las Vegas is 867 miles away. That’s about 13 hours, if the car continues to run properly. 

I awoke here at the Hampton Inn to the sounds of little people–very excited about something. When I poked my head into the hallway, I found that I’d somehow stumbled into a trampoline convention. I’m surrounded by competitive bouncers, most of whom seem to be about 6 years old and dressed in pink. One mother wryly remarked at breakfast, “Yep, I’m a tramp mom.” Another dad sported a trampoline t-shirt, “I don’t believe in miracles, I depend on them.”

That’s a good philosophy for driving across country.

So today I’ll be updating this blog by my iPhone–few pictures, but live, city-by-city coverage until I get to Vegas (or bust). So stay tuned.

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Trying not to interfere, I stayed away from the shop for the next two days. Instead, I caught up on work and enjoyed the company of my sister Lauren, her husband Scott, and my little nephew. 

If I didn’t have a 5,000-pound paperweight weighing on my cerebral cortex, I’d have found the whole experience very relaxing.

Instead, I worried about the car. So many variables. Yet Auto Electric Services and Jeff did their best to fix the car. They searched for parts. They fixed poor connections. The tweaked other wiring issues. They also installed a new voltage regulator and rebuilt generator. Finally, they called to say I was all clear and ready to go.

So I ventured over to the shop, said goodbye to everyone (including Mr. Grumpy–who is actually pretty friendly once he decides to like you), and got in the car to go. It started right up.

Then died.

Oh brother. Grumpy quickly diagnosed the coil as the problem and replaced it with the spare I had in the trunk. I started the car, it rumbled to life. We’re good! So I said my goodbyes again.  Bye!

Then the car died.

This time, I found the problem: the fuel pump wire was disconnected. Ha! No problem. I reconnected the wire, went in to start the car, chuckling to myself. Bye everybody!

The Brougham blew a geyser of gas everywhere. Stuck needle seat. Argh!

Grumpy, a.k.a. Terry, cleaned up the gas, banged on the carbs (hit it with a hammer!) and then started the car. It fired up right away and kept running. Whew. Finally. Ok, time to go.

My dash lights were out.

Two more hours were spent figuring out why the dash lights went kaput. One problem was a blown fuse. But the low fuel and temp lights no longer illuminate at startup. I can live with that, but it is depressing. Especially when you’ve sweated a litre of water in 100-degree heat trying to remove and reinstall the instrument panel.

But we had the critical lights. “Terry, I’m getting the hell outta here before something else breaks,” I said. Terry laughed. “Thanks guy,” he said.

I got in the car. Started it. Put it in reverse. Drove away from the shop and across the street to get gas. Whew–I’d made it. Bye, everybody!

As I was pumping, Terry pulled up, “You don’t have any brake lights.” I briefly considered hosing the car down with premium and putting it out of its misery with a match. But jail time sounded less appealing that going to Vegas, so I opted to be patient. 

After five minutes, Terry had fixed the brake lights. Now that’s kind–it was after shop hours. He really turned out to be an excellent tech, and cares enough about his work not to let a guy drive off into the sunset with non-functioning brake lights. 

The generator functioned properly and all systems were a go–by 2 am, I’d made Amarillo, Texas.

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So my mission of the day: fix the car (again).  It’s probably either the voltage regulator or (worse) the generator itself. Maybe both. My friend and fellow Brougham driver Ken Long, of Dallas, kindly researched the best electrical shops in town. Auto Electrical Systems, Inc. said they could take me at 8 am on Tuesday morning, so I headed over here to service the car.

I spent Tuesday in the waiting room. There are a few posters. One of a girl I would have found attractive in the 8th grade: blonde, tall, wearing giant “CHIPS” sunglasses and huge boots. She’s dressed like a cop and is driving a Lamborghini  patrol car painted black and white. She’s writing up a ticket for a Don Johnson-looking fellow who is leaning up on his modified 1931 Model A equipped with racing slicks and a big-haired girlfriend in a tube top. He looks dejected. Still, they’re in the desert in a front of a Speed Limit 55 sign. The poster caption reads, “I Can’t Drive 55.” This kind of marketing changed America and upped our speed limit to 70 or 75 in places. Hmm. I need to do a poster of a big-haired girl pumping ethanol into my classic car or a scantily-clad gal kicking a Prius. 

 

I can't drive 55.

I can't drive 55.

 

Our mechanic for the day is a grumpy fellow. He little interest in my history of what went wrong with the car. After an hour, I finally broke down and went over to check up on him. For the most part, I try to stay out of the expert’s way. I realize an owner who thinks he knows the problem is probably annoying. But when I got over to his stall, Mr. Grumpy was looking at a 1960 Cadillac shop manual wiring diagram. Ugh.

I kept cool. “Would a correct wiring diagram for the car help you, sir?” I asked calmly.
He grumbled. I got the book. I opened it to the wiring diagram. I waited. After about 2 minutes I said, “That diagram you’ve got there isn’t going to help you. The two cars are nothing alike.” There was probably an edge to my voice. I was tired and frustrated. The problem with having a breakdown on the road is that you have to re-explain history. If I were in Birmingham, I could just say, “Nope, that last thing you did hasn’t cured it.”

But to be fair, my road trip woes aren’t Mr. Grumpy’s fault. So I continued, “Would you like to know what we’ve replaced so far?”

“Not really,” he said beneath his breath. “I can see that.”

Okay. Time for a new shop. I went back to the waiting room and was about to tell the manager that I was headed for greener pastures. “I see you talked to Mr. Personality,” the manager said, “Don’t worry. He acts that way but he understands these cars and is the best in the business. Give him some time. When you leave here, the car will be right.”

Hmm. I debated. I guess what I need is electrical talent, not a service-station politician. My brilliant sister Lauren made a good point: if the manager knows Grumpy is difficult, they must keep him around for reasons other than his winning customer management skills. So I sat back down and waited. Another hour passed. I read a magazine. I updated the blog. I made some calls. I read a “FOR SALE: 2008 Smart Car Passion Coupe” ad (only $15,500 for a car the size of my loafer). I finally couldn’t help myself and went back out to see the surliest dwarf in Snow White’s retinue. Yet this time, Grumpy was more upbeat, “I’d drawn my own diagram using that one you gave me.”

Sure enough, Grumpy did have a diagram for the generator, drawn in blue ballpoint pen. “You’re missing a wire,” he said. My internal dialogue: Well, that’s it right there! I’m missing a wire! Clearly that’s my whole problem. A missing wire. Why didn’t I think of that? Get me some wire and I’ll be on my merry way. Better still, get me a coat hanger and I’ll make do with that. Or no, wait, why don’t I just stand in puddle and hold the two terminals where the wire is missing? Instead, I said, “Okay, which wire.” 

 I was missing a wire–brown one that ran from my generator to my automatic starter solenoid. Hmm. Could this possibly be what ailed me? I thought not. But since Grumpy seemed more personable, I helped him trace the brown wire on the diagram. After five minutes, I figured I’d stayed my welcome and went back to the waiting room. Another hour passed. I asked the manager if he had Wifi. He laughed and snorted no. 

My sister Lauren came and picked me up to go to lunch. I had a beer to settle my nerves. This shop charged $85 an hour, and while that was cheaper than the last electrical shop, it didn’t seem they were as swift at finding the source of my trouble. I scarfed down everything in sight at Uncle Julio’s here in Dallas. At 3 pm I returned to the shop. The manager, Steve, said, “Well, it’s either a bad generator or a bad voltage regulator.”

Given this is exactly the information I had told Steve when I arrived this morning at the shop, my reaction was less than enthusiastic. Internal dialogue: I’m paying them $85 an  hour for this? External dialogue: What do I owe you for this diagnosis? I was about to go buy five batteries and keep going on my journey.

Thankfully, at this point, the shop owner, Jeff Andonian, came by and introduced himself. He had 1,000 watt personality and really knew cars. He immediately put me at ease by asking, “You don’t owe us anything for that diagnosis. Our diagnosis charge is $85, total. Say, that looks like a truck generator for an old Freightliner on this car. Is that OEM?” (Indeed the Brougham did share its generator and regulator with many fire trucks, road graders, and heavy-duty trucks such as Diamond T, Oshkosh, and Reo.). He knows his stuff. 

My sister Lauren watched Jeff carefully and concluded that yes, he was an honest guy. Jeff’s also the city councilman from Carrollton, so we left the Brougham overnight with the hope that the guys at ACS could fix it.

In the meantime, some of my Cadillac friends suggested that the polarity on the generator may not have been set correctly. They said that, according to the Cadillac manual, the polarity of the generator must be set on the car. I called Schelene Gray Electric and they’d set the polarity on the bench. Uh-oh. For more information on how this possibly could have caused the burnout, read about polarizing a generator here.

Schelene insisted, up and down, that polarity would not change from the bench to the car. The Cadillac manual, the 1958 GM service guide, and every other electrical expert I talked with about polarity contradicted Schelene. One old timer simply snorted, “Ask them how they set it on the bench. I’d like to know.” Another laughed out loud and said setting the polarity on the car was the most fundamental given of working on a generator/voltage regulator system. Oh great.

On Wednesday, the shop removed the generator and reported that they found a lot of wear on the armature, and that the brush spring and leads were burnt. Not good. 

Now, on to the voltage regulator. What was it’s deal? In fact, what is a voltage regulator? I’ve learned a lot about a generator system on this trip. A voltage regulator is a like a dam. It holds back the raging river of the generator. I have a 55 amp generator and should have a 55 amp voltage regulator. But what happens if you put a 45 amp regulator with a 55 amp generator?

I’d assumed the whole system would go berserk and burn itself up. Not so, says Dave Soltow of Yesteryear Antique Auto Parts of Port Charlotte, Florida (941) 743-7784, “If you have a double contact voltage regulator and the correct double-field yellow leads off your generator, you should have no problems,” he said. 

Why? In my case, for much of the trip, I was running with a 55 amp generator and a 45 amp voltage regulator. Had I turned on the lights, AC, fan, power seats, radio, fuel pump, brake lights, and started running the windows up and down, maybe I would be in a situation where my electrical demands totaled 46 amps. What would happen?

I’d drain down the battery by 1 amp. That in itself, would not fry the generator. For the generator to destroy itself, I’d need to be in some sort of situation where the voltage regulator called for 55 or more amps for an extended period of time. Or, perhaps, the generator had a dead short–one of the brush holders might have an open, causing it to run full out at 55 amps. 

The mystery is that a generator running full out should have showed up in our voltage tests or on the car’s gauge. So what caused the generator to spike? A short in the system? Is there a vampire wire sucking all the juice without it showing on the gauge? Was the generator simply poorly rebuilt? Or it could be poor grounds, dirty grounds, or missing grounds. Maybe the Brougham’s wiring has a simple short somewhere? Entirely possible. I have about 200 miles of wire to trace in the car, so that eventuality is scary. 

I am a man in need of a solution, and it seems that many are possible. 

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Unbelievably, the Brougham isn’t charging again. My generator light is on and the needle reads “discharging.”

This light is the red glow of the devil himself.

This light is the red glow of the devil himself.

No amount of profanity can adequately sum up my frustration. Let’s recap my charging trouble, shall we? I had the generator rebuilt by Southern Armature in Birmingham, Alabama. Day two of driving the Brougham, I noticed the system wasn’t charging, so Southern Armature replaced the voltage regulator and set it.

The original generator, pre-rebuild.

The original generator, pre-rebuild.

The newly rebuilt generator--gave up the ghost.

The newly rebuilt generator--gave up the ghost.

Day 3, I noticed the system wasn’t charging, so Southern Armature reset the voltage regulator. The car lasted four days and 1,134 miles until Philadelphia, where I bought a new battery. That battery lasted two days and a few miles until Sicklerville, New Jersey, where we replaced the voltage regulator (that’s #2! Keep counting) and recharged the old girl. 

The battery was charged again in New York and I drove until Boston where the battery died for the second time. This time, I bought a big honking battery. I mean a huge battery. I’m talking: I stole a Prius and put the damn thing in my trunk.  Then I charged the smaller one to keep as a spare. I drove 2,000 more miles to Detroit, Michigan without a hitch. We charged the batteries there just to be on the safe side.

One thousand miles later, in the Twin Cities, I limped into Schelene Gray Electric. The generator was now not charging at all. Nothing. Schelene replaced the voltage regulator (#3, kids) with a 55 amp regulator (ah-ha!), bench tested the generator (it was fine), and made a new wiring harness from the generator to the voltage regulator. Whew. Problem solved. The generator needle now behaved perfectly, like a new car, and the system charged beautifully. I’d turn on the lights and the generator would immediately compensate. I’d turn off the air conditioner, and I could see the voltage regulator decrease the current. All was right with the world.

Until this morning. Same symptoms as 1,500 miles ago in the Twin Cities. No charge.

Houston, we have a problem. Charlie and Bebe need to be in Dallas to catch a flight back to Birmingham. Our only option? Drive to the Big D with no air conditioning, no fan, and using as few electrical options as possible. Oh, the misery of it all.

I have perfectly working AC that will freeze you out, but I can’t turn it on during the first 100 degree day I’ve driven on this road trip. I’m a Murphy, but seriously, I’m getting tired of my own law. Damnit.

Fortunately, despite the blistering day, the drive to Dallas was smooth and uneventful. The bleeding red tale-tell light glowed steadily at me the entire way, but Bebe and Charlie bantered happily and gave no indication that they were worried about making the flight. Now that’s friendship, folks.

After dropping the Buggs off at Love Field (in plenty of time for them to drink a cold beer before boarding), I limped to my sister Lauren’s house. She graciously allowed her older brother to stay at her beautiful University Park home, and we had a fun time laughing until the wee hours.

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